중세 시장 노점 디오라마: 통과 베이스 작업
By Victrix Limited 28mm miniatures | Published: 2026-11-01
Category: 사용 방법 가이드
시장 노점 키트와 배럴 스프루를 활용해 설득력 있는 배치, 땅에 단단히 디딘 발, 테이블 거리에서도 잘 읽히는 도색 마감을 갖춘 콤팩트한 암흑시대 디오라마 베이스로 완성하세요.
Quick answer
Build the diorama as a single compact base: place the market stall slightly off-center, group the barrels where they support the story rather than filling empty space, and finish the ground before you glue figures down. That order keeps the layout readable and the basing clean.
Choose a footprint that still works as gaming terrain
A market stall diorama can be as small as a trade counter with two figures or as large as a village square. For 28mm games, a footprint that fits inside a standard terrain area or sits along a road edge is easier to place than a sprawling scene. Decide whether the piece is display-first or table-first before cutting the base, because a display piece can afford deeper ground texture and a taller silhouette.
If the diorama will sit inside a camp or village during a Pillage scenario, leave a clear edge where figures can stand without overhanging. A base with a straight back and a slightly irregular front reads as a slice of a larger marketplace and avoids the awkward look of a scene that has been cut off mid-stall.
Plan the story before the glue comes out
A convincing market scene needs a reason for every object. A stall with goods laid out, a barrel or two behind the counter and a customer approaching tells a clearer story than a stall surrounded by random clutter. Sketch the arrangement on paper or dry-fit the pieces on the bare base first, then photograph the layout so you can rebuild it after painting.
Barrels work best as supporting scenery: stacked behind the stall, used as a counter support or grouped at the edge of the scene. Spreading them evenly around the base flattens the composition and makes the stall look like one object among many rather than the focus.
Keep the ground simple enough to paint
Dark Ages ground is usually packed earth, trampled grass or a mix of both. A single texture paste or sand layer with a few larger stones reads well at table distance and dries faster than deep sculpting. Save the detail for the areas the eye lands on: the stall front, the base of the barrels and the path where figures stand.
Avoid building up the ground so high that the stall sits in a trench. Check the base of every wall and barrel against the ground level before the texture sets, and press the pieces in slightly so they look embedded rather than placed on top.
Step-by-step: assembling the diorama
- Cut and seal the base: Cut a base from MDF or rigid plastic with a straight back edge and a slightly irregular front, then seal the edges with filler or PVA so the ground texture has something to grip. Common mistake: cutting the base too small before the stall and barrels are dry-fitted, which leaves no room for figures. Dry-fit the stall and barrels on the bare base before cutting anything.
- Dry-fit the layout and mark positions: Place the stall off-center, group the barrels behind and beside it, and mark the footprint of each piece with a pencil. Check that a 25mm figure base can stand at the counter without overhanging the edge. Common mistake: centering the stall, which leaves two dead zones at the ends of the base. Photograph the dry-fit layout so you can rebuild it after painting.
- Build the ground and embed the scenery: Apply texture paste or glued sand across the base, then press the stall walls and barrels into the texture while it is still wet so they sit slightly below ground level. Wipe away texture from the surfaces you will paint later. Common mistake: letting texture dry around the pieces, which leaves a visible ridge and a floating look. Check every wall and barrel base for a clean ground line before the texture sets.
- Prime and paint the scenery separately where possible: Paint the stall, barrels and loose goods before final assembly where the layout allows, using a mid-brown base for wood and a muted grey-brown for pottery. Keep the palette close to your figure collection so the diorama does not overpower the models. Common mistake: painting the whole piece as one unit and losing the separation between the stall and the ground. Test the palette against a painted figure before committing to the whole piece.
- Add the loose goods and figures last: Glue baskets, pots and serving dishes onto the stall and ground after the main painting is done, then place any figures and check that weapons and cloaks clear the scenery. Common mistake: gluing goods down before the final wash, which dulls the small details you wanted to highlight. Leave the front edge of the base clear enough for a figure to stand without overhang.
Products that fit this build
- Market Stall (Medieval & Dark Ages): The Market Stall kit includes tables and stools, baskets of food, cooking pots and serving dishes for a busy marketplace or camp supply area. The loose goods let you dress the stall front and the ground around it, so the scene reads as a working market rather than an empty frame.
Market Stall (Medieval & Dark Ages) - Barrels: The Barrels set contains 22 barrels in three sizes: 4 large, 8 medium and 10 small. Mixing sizes gives you stacks and clusters that look naturally varied, and the small barrels suit tight corners where a large one would crowd the stall.
Barrels
