How to Prevent Paint Chipping on Metal and Plastic Miniatures

Quick answer

Prevent paint chipping by fixing adhesion first: wash metal figures, prime for the material, avoid handling painted surfaces, and seal with a varnish suited to how you store and transport models. If chips keep appearing at the same contact points, treat it as a handling or storage problem rather than adding more paint.

Wash and prime for the material, not the paint brand

Chipping often starts before the first colour goes on. Metal figures carry mould release and skin oils that stop primer bonding, so wash them in warm water with a little dish soap, rinse, and dry fully. Plastic figures usually need less washing but still benefit from a quick degrease. Prime in thin coats and let each coat cure rather than trying to cover the model in one pass. A dusty or glossy primer coat gives acrylic nothing to grip, so paint flakes off in sheets later. For metal, a primer labelled for metal gives a more forgiving base. For plastic, a plastic-compatible primer avoids the tacky finish that some hardware primers leave. If you cannot tell whether your primer is the problem, paint a test patch on a spare figure and try to scratch it after 24 hours.

Seal with the right varnish for how you actually use the models

Varnish for wargaming models is not one product but a choice between matte, satin, and gloss finishes, and between brush-on and spray application. Gloss varnish is typically the most protective, but it leaves a shine that many painters dislike on historical figures. A common approach is a protective coat followed by a matte or satin coat to restore the finish. Brush-on varnish gives more control indoors and avoids spray humidity problems; spray varnish is faster for whole units but can frost or cloud in cold or damp conditions. Whichever you choose, apply thin coats and let them cure. One thick coat can stay soft underneath and chip away from the paint rather than with it.

Handle figures by the base, not the body

Most wear on painted 28mm figures comes from fingers. Oils and friction rub paint away at edges, weapon tips, and shield rims first. Pick models up by the base or a integral tab, and use a painting handle while you work. During games, place figures rather than dropping them, and avoid sliding them across textured terrain. If you use movement trays, check that the figure bases sit flat and do not rock, because a rocking base grinds against the tray and chips the lower edges. For units that see heavy handling, consider leaving shields or banners off until after varnishing so you can seal the main body without awkward gaps.

Store and transport to reduce contact damage

Miniature transport damage is mostly a contact problem. Foam trays that grip figures too tightly can rub paint off raised details, while loose figures in a box knock against each other. Magnetic bases on a metal-lined tray keep figures upright and reduce movement, but the tray still needs a lid or strap so models cannot slide out. If you use foam, choose a grade that compresses slightly and cut or pick slots that match your figure's footprint and height. Leave space for banners, spears, and standards, which are the first parts to snap or chip. For metal figures, weight matters: a heavy model that shifts in transit can damage its neighbours even if its own paint survives.

Decide when to repair and when to change your method

If a chip is small and isolated, touch it in with the original colour and re-varnish that spot. If chips keep returning at the same points, stop repainting and change one variable: your primer, your varnish, or your storage. Repainting over a chipped edge without sealing it just builds a thicker layer that will fail again. If you have tried washing, priming for the material, and sealing with a protective varnish, and the models still chip in normal handling, the likely cause is the storage or transport system rather than the paint. At that point, changing trays or adding a protective coat is more effective than another layer of colour.

Diagnosis: match the symptom to the fix

• Paint flakes off in large sheets: This usually points to poor adhesion from mould release, skin oils, or a glossy primer. Wash metal figures, degrease plastic, and re-prime with a thin coat suited to the material. If a test patch scratches off easily after curing, the primer bond is the problem.
• Edges and raised details wear through: Friction from handling and storage removes paint at high points. Seal with a protective varnish and switch to handling by the base or a movement tray that holds figures securely. If wear is limited to edges, improve varnish and handling before changing paint.
• Chips appear after transport: Models are moving against foam, tray walls, or each other. Check that slots fit without pressure and that magnetic or foam trays are secured with a lid or strap. If chips only happen after games, treat transport as the cause, not the paint.

Transfer sheets that survive handling

• REP(AV)5: REP(AV)5 is a transfer sheet supplied un-cut, with catalog facts noting that images may not show actual size. Un-cut transfers let you trim to the exact shield or surface, which reduces overhang that can catch on foam or fingers and lift the paint underneath.
• EIRA(AV)2: EIRA(AV)2 is an Early Imperial Roman Auxiliary transfer sheet designed to fit Aventine miniatures, covering shields, standard bearer and musician bucklers, and Vexilum, and is ideally used with Aventine's 16 figure unit packs. Matching transfers to the intended figure range avoids trimming and stretching, so the decal sits flat and seals under varnish without edges that chip away.