Painting 28mm Napoleonic British Line Infantry: Step-by-Step

Quick answer

Paint British line infantry in batches of eight to twelve figures: prime light grey, block in scarlet, white, and flesh, paint the shako and facings, then add lace and final details. Keep each step thin and let it dry before moving on. This order prevents repainting and keeps the unit consistent.

Prepare the figures before paint touches them

Clean flash and mold lines with a sharp hobby knife, then wash the figures in warm soapy water to remove release agent. Let them dry completely. Mount each figure on a temporary base or cork. A common mistake is skipping the wash, which causes primer and paint to flake later. Checkpoint: bare plastic or metal should look uniformly clean and matte.

Prime light and thin

Use a light grey or white primer. Light primer makes scarlet and white cover more easily and helps you see detail. Spray in short bursts from 20–30 cm away, rotating the figure. A common mistake is spraying too close and filling in the face and musket detail. Checkpoint: primer should be smooth and thin, not glossy or textured.

Block in the main uniform colours

Basecoat the jacket in a mid scarlet, the trousers in a light grey or white, and the crossbelts in white. Paint the face and hands with a flesh tone. Use a size 1 or 0 brush and keep the paint thinned to a milk-like consistency. A common mistake is applying thick paint that obscures the sculpted lace and buttons. Checkpoint: two thin coats should give solid coverage without hiding detail.

Paint the shako and facings

The shako is black with a black or oilskin cover. Paint the plume and pom-pom in the facing colour for the regiment. Facings, cuffs, and collar are also the facing colour. For many British line regiments this is yellow, but check your reference for the specific unit. A common mistake is using the same facing colour for every regiment. Checkpoint: the shako should read as a separate dark shape above the face.

Add lace, buttons, and final details

Paint the lace and buttons in a silver or white metal tone. Use a fine brush and a steady hand, or a piece of fine sponge for worn lace. Paint the musket wood brown and the barrel and bayonet in silver. A common mistake is leaving the lace too thick or too bright. Checkpoint: lace should be visible but not overpower the scarlet jacket.

Base and seal the unit

Paint the base in a earth brown, then add static grass or texture. Once dry, apply a matte varnish to protect the paint. A common mistake is using a glossy varnish, which makes the figures look toy-like. Checkpoint: the unit should look consistent from tabletop distance.

Step-by-step painting sequence

1. Clean and mount: Remove mold lines, wash in soapy water, and mount on a temporary base. Checkpoint: no shiny release agent remains.
2. Prime light and thin: Spray light grey or white primer from 20–30 cm in short bursts. Checkpoint: detail is still crisp, not clogged.
3. Basecoat scarlet, white, and flesh: Apply two thin coats of scarlet to the jacket, white to belts, and flesh to face and hands. Checkpoint: solid colour without thick paint.
4. Paint shako and facings: Black the shako, then paint the plume, collar, cuffs, and facings in the correct regimental colour. Checkpoint: shako reads as a separate dark shape.
5. Add lace and metal details: Paint lace and buttons in silver or white metal, then the musket wood and barrel. Checkpoint: lace is visible but not overpowering.
6. Base and varnish: Texture the base, then apply a matte varnish once dry. Checkpoint: unit looks consistent from tabletop distance.

Useful flags and transfers for your British line

• SASS(A&A)1: SASS(A&A)1 is a flags and transfers product priced at USD 2.56, with catalog comparison price USD 4.00. Transfers come un-cut. Un-cut transfers let you trim exactly to the shape you need, but you will need sharp scissors or a knife and a steady hand. The lower price makes it easy to add a flag or transfer to a unit without much cost.
• Iberian Caetrati Shield Transfers 2: Iberian Caetrati Shield Transfers 2 includes pre-punched shield boss holes and a choice of pre-cut or un-cut transfer outlines. The pre-punched holes save time and reduce the risk of tearing when you apply transfers to shields. The option to choose pre-cut or un-cut gives you control over how much trimming you do.