Medieval Army Basing Ideas for 28mm Wargames

Quick answer

Base your medieval army on 2mm plastic or MDF bases with a sand-and-static-grass ground layer, then add tufts, stones, and a muted earth rim. Match the base style across infantry, archers, and cavalry so the army reads as one force, and seal the finished base with a matte varnish before storage.

Choose a base footprint that matches your unit type

Medieval armies mix close-order spearmen, looser archer formations, and cavalry, so a single base size for everything usually looks wrong. Decide the frontage per figure first, then scale the base to the unit. A common approach is 20mm frontage for infantry and 25mm for cavalry, but check your ruleset before cutting anything. Movement trays are worth planning at the same time, because a base that fits the tray cleanly is easier to deploy and store.

Build the ground layer in two passes

Spread a thin layer of textured paste or PVA and sand over the base top, leaving a clean margin around the figure's feet so glue does not creep onto painted legs. Let it cure fully, then add a second pass of finer sand or grit in selected areas to break up the flat surface. One common mistake is applying texture too thickly near the figure, which buries the feet and makes the miniature look sunken.

Paint the ground before you decorate it

Paint the textured base with a dark brown or olive undercoat, then drybrush two lighter earth tones to catch the grit. Keep the palette muted and consistent across the army so the bases do not compete with the figures. If your miniatures use bright heraldry, a restrained base color actually helps the painted shields stand out.

Add vegetation and debris with restraint

Tufts, static grass, small stones, and a few twigs give a base life, but too many elements make it look like a diorama rather than a gaming piece. Place taller tufts at the rear or edges and keep the front clear so the figure remains the focus. For a medieval look, mix green and dry-yellow tufts to suggest trampled ground rather than a manicured lawn.

Finish the rim and seal the base

Paint the base rim a solid, dark earth or black, and keep that color identical across every unit. Once the decoration is dry, brush or spray a matte varnish over the base to lock down loose flock and grit. This step matters more than most painters expect, because unsealed basing material sheds in foam trays and on the tabletop.

Plan shield and banner transfers before final assembly

If your medieval infantry carry decorated shields or banners, decide on the design before you glue the figure to the base. Transfers are easier to apply while the shield or banner is still separate, and any trimming or setting solution can be done without risking the finished base. The tradeoff is that pre-applied transfers need extra protection during handling, so give them a gloss coat before the matte varnish.

Five-step basing process for 28mm medieval units

1. 1. Set the base footprint: Confirm your ruleset's frontage per figure, then cut bases for infantry, archers, and cavalry separately so each unit type sits correctly. Checkpoint: dry-fit figures on the bare base before gluing anything.
2. 2. Apply the ground texture: Coat the base top with PVA and sand or textured paste, keeping the area around the figure's feet thin and clean. Common mistake: burying the feet under a thick layer of grit.
3. 3. Paint and drybrush the ground: Undercoat in dark brown or olive, then drybrush two lighter earth tones to pick out the texture. Checkpoint: keep the palette identical across all units for a unified army look.
4. 4. Add vegetation and debris: Place tufts, static grass, and small stones at the edges and rear, leaving the front of the base visually clear. Common mistake: over-decorating until the base reads as a diorama rather than a gaming piece.
5. 5. Rim, seal, and store: Paint the rim a single dark color, apply matte varnish over the finished base, and let it cure fully before tray storage. Checkpoint: unsealed flock sheds in foam trays, so do not skip the varnish.

Transfer options for medieval and historical armies

• REP(AV)5: REP(AV)5 is a transfer sheet sold un-cut, with the catalog noting that displayed images may not show actual size. You will need to cut each design to fit your shield or banner, so plan the trimming before you commit to a layout.
• EIRA(AV)2: EIRA(AV)2 is an Early Imperial Roman Auxiliary transfer sheet sized for Aventine miniatures, covering shields, standard bearer and musician bucklers, and the vexillum. If you also collect Roman-era forces, this sheet shows how a single transfer set can cover multiple figure roles rather than just shields.
• ETR(AV)7: ETR(AV)7 is a transfer sheet supplied un-cut, with the catalog advising you to view the larger image for the product description. Checking the enlarged image before buying helps you confirm the designs suit your unit before you cut into the sheet.