How to Paint Norman Infantry for 28mm Dark Ages Armies

Quick answer

Paint Norman infantry in batches of 8–10 figures using a simple three-stage method: assemble and prime, block in base colours, then apply washes and highlights. Focus on chainmail, shields, and faces, because these define the Norman look on the tabletop. A 60-figure set like Victrix Norman Infantry gives you enough models to practice and field a full army.

Prepare and assemble before you paint

Clean mould lines with a sharp knife and file, then test-fit parts before gluing. For Norman infantry, decide on arm and weapon options early so you don't paint parts that will be hidden. Keep sub-assemblies (body, shield, head) separate if you want easier access to the chest and face. A common mistake is gluing everything together and then struggling to reach the chainmail under the arms. Checkpoint: every figure should stand without gaps and hold its weapon naturally.

Prime and basecoat in batches

Spray prime in thin coats from 20–30 cm away. A mid-grey or brown primer works well for Dark Ages figures because it doubles as a shadow tone. For speed, basecoat the largest areas first: tunic, trousers, and chainmail. Use a slightly thinned paint so it flows into recesses without obscuring detail. A common mistake is applying paint too thickly on chainmail, which fills the links and ruins the texture. Checkpoint: the primer should not obscure facial features or shield bosses.

Paint chainmail and armour convincingly

Chainmail is the signature element of Norman infantry. Start with a dark metallic base, then drybrush a lighter silver over the raised links. Avoid washing the entire mail with black ink, as this can dull the metal; instead, use a controlled pin wash in the deepest recesses. For helmets, paint the metal first, then add a thin wash to define the nasal bar. A common mistake is making chainmail too shiny or too flat. Checkpoint: from arm's length, the mail should read as textured metal, not grey cloth.

Add colour to tunics and trousers

Norman armies used a limited palette: muted reds, blues, greens, yellows, and natural undyed tones. Keep colours slightly desaturated so they look campaign-worn. Paint tunics with a base colour, then add a darker wash in the folds and a lighter highlight on the raised areas. A common mistake is using bright, modern colours that clash with the Dark Ages setting. Checkpoint: step back and check that no single figure draws too much attention unless it's a leader.

Paint faces and hands with care

Faces are small but important. Use a flesh base, then a thin wash to define eyes and mouth. Add a subtle highlight on the nose and cheekbones. For hands, keep the paint thin so you don't fill the finger detail. A common mistake is over-painting the eyes, which makes figures look startled. Checkpoint: faces should look natural at tabletop distance, not like a portrait.

Apply shield transfers for a clean finish

Hand-painting Norman shields is time-consuming and inconsistent. Pre-cut transfers give you crisp designs quickly. For 28mm Normans, choose transfers that match your army's colour scheme. Apply them over a gloss varnish, then seal with matt varnish to blend the edges. A common mistake is applying transfers over a rough or dusty surface, which causes silvering. Checkpoint: the transfer should sit flat with no visible carrier film.

Base and varnish for durability

Base your figures with a texture paste or sand, then paint it brown and drybrush a lighter tone. Add static grass or tufts to match your gaming table. Varnish with a matt spray to protect the paint during handling. A common mistake is skipping varnish, which leads to chipped paint after a few games. Checkpoint: the base should look like terrain, not a plastic disc.

Step-by-step painting process

1. Assemble and clean: Remove mould lines, test-fit parts, and decide on weapon options before gluing. Keep shields and heads separate if you need better access. Checkpoint: no gaps, no hidden detail.
2. Prime and basecoat: Use a mid-grey or brown primer. Basecoat tunic, trousers, and chainmail in thin layers, starting with the largest areas. Checkpoint: detail remains sharp, no clogged chainmail.
3. Paint chainmail: Dark metallic base, drybrush lighter silver, pin wash recesses. Avoid heavy ink washes that dull the metal. Checkpoint: reads as textured metal at arm's length.
4. Paint tunics and trousers: Use muted reds, blues, greens, yellows, and natural tones. Base, wash folds, highlight raised areas. Checkpoint: colours look campaign-worn, not parade-ground bright.
5. Paint faces and hands: Flesh base, thin wash for eyes and mouth, subtle highlights. Keep paint thin on hands. Checkpoint: faces look natural, not over-painted.
6. Apply shield transfers: Gloss varnish first, then apply pre-cut transfers, then matt varnish to seal. Avoid dusty surfaces. Checkpoint: no silvering, no visible film.
7. Base and varnish: Texture the base, paint and drybrush, add grass. Finish with matt varnish for protection. Checkpoint: base matches your gaming table, paint is protected.

Useful products for this project

• Norman Infantry: This exceptional 60 figure set of 28mm hard plastic Normans has superbly detailed figures and a myriad of additional parts allowing hundreds of options when building the figures. This set is fully supported by a range of shield transfers and banner sheets from LBMS. The large figure count and variety of parts let you build a full army with consistent poses and equipment, while the support for transfers means you can finish shields quickly and uniformly.