How to Base 28mm Ancients for Realistic Battlefield Scenes

Quick answer

Base 28mm ancients by building a thin, uneven ground layer over a rigid base, sealing it fully, then painting and pigmenting in the same earth tones as your terrain. Add shield transfers and unit markers last so the base supports the army rather than competing with it. The single biggest improvement is matching base ground color to your gaming table, not adding more clutter.

Choose a base material that matches how you play

For 28mm historical basing, the base material decides how much work the rest of the process becomes. Plastic bases are light and cheap but can warp; MDF is flat and takes texture well but needs sealing; resin bases save time but limit how much you can carve into them. If you play on textured mats or boards, a slightly thicker base helps miniatures sit above the surface rather than sinking into it.

• Plastic: light, cheap, can bow under wet texture mixes
• MDF: flat and stable, seal edges before adding texture
• Resin: pre-textured, less flexible for custom ground shapes

Build ground in thin layers, not one thick mix

The most common basing mistake is applying one thick layer of texture paste or filler. It cracks, hides the feet of the miniature, and looks like cake frosting. Work in thin layers instead: a base coat of fine grit or textured paste, then a second pass with small stones, sand, or static grass only where the ground would naturally collect them. Keep the area directly under the feet flatter so the figure still reads as standing on the ground, not floating above it.

• Layer 1: thin, even ground coat over the whole base
• Layer 2: scattered stones or debris in clusters, not evenly spread
• Layer 3: grass or scrub only where it would grow

Seal before you paint, or the texture will drink your paint

Unsealed sand, filler, and MDF soak up paint and leave patchy, dusty results. Brush on a thin PVA-and-water mix or a matte varnish over the finished ground and let it cure fully. This locks loose grit in place and gives the paint a consistent surface. If you skip this step, you will use more paint and still see bare patches after the first coat.

• Seal after texturing, before priming or painting
• Let it dry completely; damp bases trap moisture under paint

Paint the ground in the same palette as your table

Ancient battlefields are rarely bright green. Dry earth, dusty tracks, and sparse scrub are more convincing for most Mediterranean and Near Eastern settings. Match your base colors to your gaming mat or terrain boards: if your table is pale sand, use pale sand tones on the base. This is where wargames basing techniques matter more than product choice, because a well-painted base blends into the table while a mismatched one looks like a separate object.

• Base coat: mid-tone earth, not pure brown or pure grey
• Drybrush: one or two lighter tones for raised texture
• Wash: thinned dark brown or black-brown in the recesses

Add transfers and unit markers after the ground is finished

Shield transfers and unit identifiers should go on after the base is painted and sealed, so you do not accidentally texture over them or dull them with pigment. For Iberian units, pre-cut shield transfers save time because the outline is already perforated, while un-cut sheets give you freedom to place designs on irregular shields. If you are building a unit with mixed shield shapes, un-cut transfers are usually the safer choice.

• Apply transfers to a clean, dry shield surface
• Seal transfers with a matte varnish after they dry
• Add unit markers or name plates last so they stay legible

Basing 28mm ancients: step-by-step

1. Prepare the base and figure join: Clean the base, test-fit the miniature, and decide whether you will pin the feet or glue flat. Keep the area under the feet clear of texture so the figure sits at the correct height. Checkpoint: the figure should stand level before any ground texture goes on.
2. Apply a thin ground layer: Spread fine grit, sand, or textured paste in a thin, uneven coat. Avoid building up around the ankles or knees, which makes the figure look buried. Mistake to avoid: one thick layer that cracks and swallows the feet.
3. Add stones, debris, and scrub in clusters: Place small stones, twigs, or static grass in groups where ground would naturally collect them, not evenly across the whole base. Leave some open ground so the base reads as a surface. Checkpoint: the base should still look like ground, not a diorama.
4. Seal the texture: Brush on a thin PVA-and-water mix or matte varnish and let it cure fully. This stops loose grit from coming off during handling and gives paint a consistent surface. Mistake to avoid: painting over unsealed texture and getting patchy, dusty coverage.
5. Paint the ground to match your table: Base coat in a mid-tone earth, drybrush one or two lighter tones, then wash the recesses. Match the palette to your gaming mat or terrain boards so the unit blends into the battlefield. Checkpoint: hold the base next to your table; if it stands out as a separate object, adjust the tone.
6. Add transfers and unit markers last: Apply shield transfers to clean, dry shields, seal them with matte varnish, then add any unit markers or name plates. Keep transfers and markers clear of the textured ground. Mistake to avoid: texturing or pigmenting over transfers and dulling the design.

Transfers that fit ancient basing projects

• Iberian Caetrati Shield Transfers 2: Shield transfers for Iberian Warrior sets, both armoured and unarmoured, also suitable for Victrix Iberian cavalry; shield boss holes are pre-punched and the transfer outline is available pre-cut or un-cut. Pre-punched boss holes and a pre-cut option reduce trimming time on round shields, while the un-cut option lets you fit irregular or converted shields without wasting a sheet.



• LIRC(M)2: Late Roman Cavalry transfer sheet designed for Footsore Miniatures Late Roman figures, supplied un-cut for flexible placement on 28mm scale miniatures. If your ancient or late Roman unit uses mixed shield or horse harness shapes, an un-cut sheet lets you place each motif individually instead of forcing a fixed layout.
• SASS(A&A)1: Transfers come un-cut and the catalog notes that images may not show actual size. Check the physical sheet before committing to a layout, because un-cut transfers require you to plan spacing and trimming yourself.