Fixing Common Problems When Assembling 28mm Miniatures

Quick answer

Most 28mm miniature assembly problems come down to three root causes: leftover mold lines, mismatched joins that create gaps, and glue applied to dirty or poorly fitted surfaces. Fix them in that order: clean the parts, dry-fit and adjust, then glue. If a part still won't sit right after two attempts, stop and consider whether the kit or your tools are the real limitation.

Start with clean parts, not more glue

Before you touch glue, remove every mold line with a sharp hobby knife or fine file. Mold lines are the raised seams left by the casting process; if you glue over them, they show through primer and paint. Scrape with the blade angled away from you, then smooth with a fine file or sanding stick. Wash plastic or resin parts in warm soapy water and let them dry completely. Skin oils and mold release agent stop glue from bonding, which is the hidden cause of many miniature glue issues.

Work on a clean, well-lit surface. A cutting mat protects your table and keeps small parts from rolling away. Keep a small dish for loose pieces so you don't lose them mid-assembly.

Dry-fit every joint before gluing

Dry-fitting means holding or taping parts together without glue to check the fit. If you see a gap, find out why before reaching for filler. Common causes are a mold line on the mating surface, a slightly misaligned tab, or a part meant for a different pose. Trim a little at a time and re-check. For wargaming model assembly tips, the rule is simple: never force a joint. Forcing bends the part and creates a worse gap.

If the gap is small and consistent, a tiny amount of solvent cement can weld the plastic and pull the join tight. If the gap is large, you likely have the wrong part or a miscast; contact the manufacturer rather than filling a structural problem.

Choose the right glue for the material

Polystyrene cement melts and fuses plastic parts, giving the strongest bond for most 28mm plastic kits. Cyanoacrylate (super glue) works on resin, metal, and mixed-material joins but leaves a brittle bond that can snap under handling. Two-part epoxy is overkill for most infantry but useful for heavy metal components that need extra support.

Apply cement sparingly with a fine applicator or toothpick. Excess glue squeezes out, damages detail, and can fog nearby surfaces. If a join keeps failing, the cause is usually contamination, poor fit, or the wrong adhesive, not a lack of glue.

Filling gaps without losing detail

For small gaps on plastic, stretch a little sprue over a candle and pull it thin, then weld it into the gap with cement. For resin or metal, use a fine epoxy putty. Press it in with a silicone shaper, then clean the surrounding detail with a damp brush before it cures. Avoid thick layers of putty; build up in thin passes so you don't bury detail.

If the gap is on a curved surface like a shield or cloak, check whether the part is meant to sit flush. Some kits include optional parts that leave a visible seam by design. In that case, filling may not be the right fix; adjusting the pose or accepting the seam is better.

When to stop and change approach

Stop if a part has snapped twice, if a joint won't close after two rounds of trimming, or if you are filling a gap wider than 1mm on a small 28mm figure. At that point, the problem is likely a miscast, a missing part, or a kit that doesn't match your assembly goals. Return or exchange the kit if it's defective, or switch to a different material or scale that suits your skills and tools.

Also stop if you're spending more time fixing one joint than assembling the rest of the squad. Your hobby time is better spent on painting or gaming. A simple arm swap or a different pose can solve what filler cannot.

Problem diagnosis guide

• Visible seam line after gluing: Likely cause: mold line left on the mating surface. Corrective action: separate the parts, scrape the seam, and re-glue. Checkpoint: if the seam is gone after trimming, you're done; if not, check for a misaligned tab.
• Gap that won't close: Likely cause: wrong part, misaligned tab, or a miscast. Corrective action: dry-fit again, trim a little at a time, and test. Checkpoint: if the gap is still wider than 1mm after two attempts, stop and consider a replacement or a different pose.
• Glue joint keeps snapping: Likely cause: contamination, wrong glue for the material, or too little surface area. Corrective action: clean the parts, switch to the correct adhesive, and pin if necessary. Checkpoint: if it snaps a third time, the join may need a pin or a different part.

Transfer options that help after assembly

• MAC(C)2: MAC(C)2 is a set of transfers supplied un-cut. Un-cut transfers let you trim each decal to the exact shape you need, which is useful when you have customised a model's pose or added a shield.
• KS PM MIX 5: KS PM MIX 5 combines all the shield shapes found in a Perry Pack of Mounted Knights and comes un-cut. If you are assembling knights with a variety of shield shapes, this sheet gives you matching transfers without buying multiple packs.
• RR(CM)1: RR(CM)1 is a transfer sheet supplied un-cut. A single un-cut sheet is a low-cost way to add detail to a unit after assembly and painting, especially if you want to avoid freehand painting.