12mm vs 28mm WWII Miniatures: Which Scale Fits Your Table?

Quick answer

Choose 28mm if you value individual model detail, skirmish-level character, and the tactile satisfaction of painting larger figures. Choose 12mm if you want to refight battalion or company actions on a modest table, build larger forces quickly, and spend less time on each figure. There is no universal winner—your preferred rules, available space, and painting patience should decide.

How scale changes the game you play

Scale is not just about figure size; it dictates the ground scale, unit footprint, and typical engagement size. In 28mm, a single infantryman occupies roughly 25–28mm of frontage, so a 6x4 ft table comfortably handles a platoon or small company action with a few vehicles. In 12mm, that same table can represent a battalion or even a regiment, with multiple companies, support weapons, and armour all visible at once.

This difference means the two scales naturally suit different rule sets. Skirmish games that track individual wounds, ammo, and heroics feel more natural in 28mm because each figure is a distinct character. Mass-battle rules that abstract squads into stands or bases work better in 12mm, where you can physically see the breadth of a company advance without running out of space.

Detail, painting, and visual impact

28mm miniatures offer crisp facial features, uniform lace, and equipment that reward close inspection. That detail is a joy to paint but also a demand: a single 28mm figure can take 30–60 minutes to finish to a decent tabletop standard. A 12mm figure, by contrast, is often painted with a base coat, a wash, and a couple of highlights—enough to read well from arm's length. You can finish a 12mm squad in the time it takes to paint one 28mm hero.

The trade-off is visual presence. On the table, 28mm armies are imposing and photograph beautifully for battle reports. 12mm armies look more like a diorama from a distance; you see formations and manoeuvres rather than individual soldiers. Neither is better, but they appeal to different temperaments.

Cost, storage, and transport

A 28mm force is heavier on the wallet and the shelf. Figures cost more per model, and you need more storage space for the same number of troops. Terrain also scales up: a 28mm building occupies far more table area than its 12mm equivalent, so you may need to buy or build a larger collection of scenery.

12mm is cheaper per figure and far more portable. You can carry a full battalion in a small box, and terrain packs away easily. The savings let you field multiple armies or expand into different theatres without doubling your spend. However, 12mm figures can be fiddly to clean and assemble, and their small size makes them easy to lose on a cluttered workbench.

Choosing transfers and flags for your scale

Whichever scale you pick, flags and transfers add historical flavour without freehand painting. For 28mm, decals designed for that scale sit naturally on banners and shoulder patches. For 12mm, you may need to trim or resize transfers, or use smaller designs. Always check the intended scale before buying; a sheet made for 28mm cavalry will look oversized on a 12mm tank.

If you already collect 28mm WWII, you can use the same transfer sheets across multiple vehicles or units, which stretches their value. For 12mm, consider that some transfer sets are designed for smaller scales and will fit better. The key is to match the motif size to the model, not just the historical period.

Trade-offs at a glance

• Detail vs. speed: 28mm offers high individual detail but slower painting; 12mm is quicker to paint but less detailed per figure. If you enjoy painting centrepiece models, go 28mm. If you want troops on the table fast, go 12mm.
• Space vs. spectacle: 28mm needs a larger table for the same number of troops and creates a skirmish feel; 12mm fits bigger battles in a smaller area but looks less impressive up close. Measure your table and decide whether you want a skirmish or a mass battle.
• Cost vs. variety: 28mm costs more per figure and takes more storage; 12mm is cheaper and easier to store, letting you collect more armies. Set a budget for the whole project, not just the first box.

Useful transfer options for 28mm projects

• LIRC(M)2: This transfer sheet features Late Roman Cavalry designs created to fit Footsore Miniatures Late Roman figures. All transfers are supplied un-cut for flexible placement. If you also game Late Roman periods in 28mm, these transfers are pre-sized for those figures, saving you trimming time. The un-cut format lets you cut exactly the motif you need, reducing waste.
• SASS(A&A)1: All transfers come un-cut. Un-cut transfers give you control over placement and let you adapt a single sheet to multiple models or even different scales if you carefully trim smaller elements.

Which scale should you choose?

Best for

• Skirmish and platoon-level games where individual soldiers matter
• Painters who enjoy detailed, characterful miniatures
• Small tables and collections focused on quality over quantity

Not for

• Players who want to refight large battalion actions on a 6x4 ft table
• Hobbyists with limited painting time or storage space
• Those on a tight budget who want multiple armies